So that whole tower thing in Pisa is pretty funny. It's just... crooked. From a certain angle it peeks out behind the duomo (church) like a little kid playing hide and seek. i actually chuckled out loud when I woke up from a short nap on the grass and saw it again. I also chuckled to myself at all the people taking those perspective-trick "hey, look, i'm holding up the leaning tower with my hand" pictures. oh, tourists. we're so amusing.

yesterday saw me leaving Siena and my new Canadian and Kiwi friends at the train station. I'm not gonna lie, my heart did a sad little flip when my train to Pisa pulled out of the station and they were all sitting there together laughing and chatting and waiting for their later southbound train. but i perked up soon enough, looking at more of the hilly cypress-tree-spotted tuscan countryside. made it all the way to Pisa and walked around the city.
Italy is interesting. I wasn't sure whether it was because it was Saturday or because it was 1:30 in the afternoon or because it was just Pisa's character, but the whole town was virtually EMPTY. I strolled. it's not a big place. took me about 20 minutes from the train station, past keith haring's last mural ever (on the bus station, 1989),

through the not-bustling but surprisingly interesting and arty saturday market, all the way to the big green lawn containing the tower, the duomo, and the baptistery (what IS a baptistery anyway...). So, as i mentioned, the town was shockingly quiet and empty, but when i got one street away from the tower, i could hear the rumble. the rumble of tourists. lots and lots of tourists. and i turned the corner and there were swarms of them. amazing how they don't filter through to any other part of pisa. it's really JUST the tower. but the tower was engrossing for the better part of an hour, including the aforementioned lawn nap. I was not alone in my resting practices -- let's not forget that Pisa is a university town, so there were plenty of students asleep on eachother on the grass.
On my way back toward the train station (after a tasty lasagna and gelato lunch - gelato was pretty tasty but nothing to scream about - chocolate and pine nut (!) - my standards are awfully high these days), the market had picked up a little bit - maybe it was the 1:30-ness, but Pisa remained an extremely chilled out place. too bad i couldn't find a room under £50 per night.
So onward to Lucca. Lucca has an HI hostel with dorm beds for £16.50. much more my speed. i arrived and went through and over the wall that surrounds this little town. it is a wealthy town, that's for sure; you can see it in the clothes and the shops. I happened to arrive just during the evening stroll- the passaggiata - which normally i really enjoy, but not when i have a pack on my back and people are meandering and the streets are filled. i just had to meander with 30 pounds on my back. saw a bit of the town though. nice. cute. Tuscan town-y.
Put the pack down in my 8-bed dorm. The hostel here is very anti-social feeling (unfortunate.). it kind of feels like a hotel in that there is no real common space. so i went out a-walking. went up on the walls (there's a whole litte road up atop the walls - people walk and exercise and roller blade and bike ride and take their grandkids... it's great. i did it this morning. 2x around the circumference of the city. 40 minutes. not a big city.) and read the Lucca section of my guidebook. took a stroll down some main and side streets. sat in a big piazza under a big church with pillars that have different designs on them (it's cool, actually. you'll have to wait for pictures)

and chatted with ms. emily on my telefonino. listened to a guy play some street music on his guitar with all his fancy equipment. Lucca has definitively won the medal for most outdoor music -- there was that guy yesterday who reminded me just a tad of our friend Mr. Mraz, then there was a band this morning playing things like "raindrops keep falling on my head," oboe and all, and then a spanish guitarist near the duomo... music makes my life better. Anyway, then I found some dinner at a sidewalk cafe in the form of grilled polenta with melted scamorza (smoked mozzarella) and zuppa di farro (barley soup lucca style). walked around some more. read my book (i am reading The Kite Runner now. INTENSE. Weird to be switching back and forth between Afghanistan and Italy).
Ended up in Piazza Napoleone, a big huge square, where they had a little stage and some seating set up. There was to be a karaoke performance. I stayed and was really enjoying myself (italian pop songs galore), when it started to drizzle. I was unprepared. My raincoat was back in the locker in the hostel all the way across town. So, sadly, I left the square and hoofed it back to the hostel. then i was sad because people were already asleep in my room and i was still revved up from the karaoke concert (there was this one little kid that hammed it up big time and he was great even if he was totally off key, and everyone was cheering for him), but i didn't want to go all the way back across town in the rain just for another hour because the HI hostel has a midnight curfew... anyway. too bad i had to leave the concert early. it never really poured either. bah. i sat on a couch in the hallway and read. a couple of people walked by, but i haven't heard much english happening here. eventually i went to sleep in my dark dorm room.
today more walking. i rode the bike around lucca for an hour or so (literally around. on the walls.) and that was fun.

i went to a couple of places The Guide mentions to try to get some foccacia for breakfast or "melt in the mouth pizza" for lunch, but it seems the world is closed on Sundays. So i eventually found another pizzeria and then had some fairly tasty gelato (peach and rice were interesting flavors. nutella and strawberry were natural choices).
then more strolling in a new area of town. a little cafe looked like it was bustling and so i stopped in. they had a fondente e pepperoncino cake that looked... well... i had to have some. so i did (that's chocolate and hot chilis). a spicy cake it was. but yum. got my tastebuds going for sure. i can still taste some of the peperoncino on my lips. and now i think i am headed back to the hostel for a quick napperino (that's not italian, just an amy-slang) before my continued strolling and search for food.
there is a painful blister on my left foot and i am unhappy about it. i do the 11km cinque terre walk in 2 days. suck it up! walk it off! i am going to a servas house in the marble mine town of Carrara tomorrow. Hooray for Marco and Paola! And I have just set up another Servas visit for a couple of days in Venice with a 74 year old woman who can't host me the whole time because she is going to a very important Yoga seminar. so there. So now i just need to book a place for two nights and then i am covered! that's very exciting indeed. Venice, from what everyone has told me, will be wonderful. i can't imagine that it won't be. and i've been waiting to be back in the north so i can finally have some risotto! Just kidding, that's not the reason i'm excited. well, not the only reason, anyway. And cinque terre (CHEENkway TAREay) sounds unbelievably beautiful as well. how did i get so lucky? seriously. awesome.
Alright, well I feel like this was a pretty complete entry. Satisfying to write one of those. so that will be all.
oh and HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!!! or as they call it here, festa de mamma!
ciao ciao (to quote a friend),
amy
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